カラコルの素敵宿Duet hostel。




ソンクル湖からコチクル村に戻り、そこからシェアタクシーとマルシュを乗り継ぎ
イシククル湖の東端に位置する街、カラコルへ移動した。

カラコルは、周囲を山々に囲まれた地方都市で、天山山脈への登山基地となっている街でもある。
近辺には軽めのトレッキングコースなどもあり、世界中からトレッキングに訪れるツーリストが多く滞在する。その為街にはホテルやゲストハウス、外国人向けの食堂やカフェ、
登山グッズショップなど、一通りの商店が揃っている。
カラコルの街自体は観光するような場所はあまりないのだが
街も道も整備されていて綺麗で、ポプラ並木が美しく、しかもビシュケクのように都会でもなく静かに過ごせる場所だ。
滞在するのに不便は全く不便はないし、かなり居心地の良い街だった。

カラコルには、安くて快適に泊まれる宿が揃っているので
宿探しにも困ることはない。
カラコルで私が泊まったのは、”Duet Hostel”という宿。
ここは、一泊400ソムという安さでありながら、本当に素晴らしく快適な宿だった。
数日の滞在予定が、気がつけば一週間近くになっていたほどだった。

夕方宿に到着し、まず迎えてくれたのは、親切で穏やかな雰囲気で、分かりやすい英語を話してくれるスタッフ。
部屋はドミで10ベット、なんとカーテン付き。
照明やコンセントも各ベッドに備え付けられているので、朝や夜も時間を気にせずに電気を使って過ごすことができた。
wifiは共有スペース以外でも、自分のベッドでもサクサク使えた。

シャワールームもトイレも2つずつあるので
バスルーム待ちする時間もほとんどなくて済む。

キッチンも完備されているので、自炊も可能。
共有スペースでは宿泊客同士でコミュニケーションをとったり、シェア飯を作ったり。
私がいた時はトレッキング好きの一人旅ばかりで
皆フレンドリーで感じがよく、友達とシェアハウスしているような感覚で居心地が良かった。

宿のあちこちで、細かい部分にまで配慮が行き届いていて
ここを作った人のセンスの良さが感じられた。

着いて荷物の整理をいていると、
隣のベッドで、同じく今日着いたばかりだという男の子が話しかけてきた。
東洋人の顔つきだったので「日本人かな?」と思ったら、ニュージーランド出身だと言う。
ただ両親は台湾人とのこと。
大学を休学して既に2年間世界を旅しているという彼の名前は、アントニオ。
そして、同じく着いたばかりだと言う
ポーランドのラデックと、カナダのイアン。
二人はカザフスタンで出会い、一緒に国境を越えてカラコルまで移動して来たらしい。
ラデックは数年働いた後に仕事を辞めて、自転車でユーラシア大陸を旅している。
キルギスの後は中国、さらにアジアを周り、Uターンして陸路でポーランドまで帰るつもりなんだとか。
イアンは、なんとこれまでに84カ国を訪れて来た大の旅好き!
大学の化学の先生をしていて、数年働いてお金を稼いでは長期の旅に出るスタイルを続けていて
海外の大学で化学を教えたこともあると言う。
お互いの旅の話をする中で意気投合。
彼らとはこれから数日間の多くの時間を共に過ごすことになるのだった。

彼らとは一緒にディナーに行ったり、
それから日曜日限定で開催されているアニマルマーケットにも行った。

アニマルマーケットは、朝5時くらいから始まるとのことだったので
6時前に宿を出発し、皆とタクシーで会場へ。
まだ朝早いというのに、ものすごい家畜と人の数!
羊、山羊、馬、牛などがセクションごとに売られていて
売る人と買う人、
あちこちで交渉が繰り広げられていた。
家畜の糞を踏んだり、おしっこをズボンにかけられたりしつつ
会場内を歩いてぐるぐる回った。

中央アジアならではのアニマルマーケット
を見ることが出来たのはとても良い経験だった。

 

アニマルマーケット以外には見所の少ないカラコルだが
ちょっとしたおすすめスポットもあるのでご紹介。

まずはこちら。
ISSYK-KUL BRANDという名前のお土産屋さん。
JICAが手がけるブランドショップで、イシククル湖周辺やキルギスの小さな村の人たちによって作られたフェルトの商品やSAORIという織物などが売られていた。
雑貨以外にもジャムなどのちょっとした加工食品やお茶なども売られていたりコーヒーを飲めるスペースもあったりWIFIも使えるのでかなり居座れる。
私は会えなかったけれど、タイミングが合えば日本人のJICA職員さんにも会えるらしい。

 

そして、二つ目はこちらのロシア正教会。
ムスリムの多いエリアにありながら、この教会はひときわ目立つところにあった。
木造の壁と緑の屋根が美しい。
中に入ってみると、生まれたばかりの赤ちゃんとその家族や親戚がみんなでお祈りに来ていた。

 

カラコルには、アルティンアラシャントレッキングの拠点として
ほんの少しだけ滞在するだけの予定だったのだが
居心地の良い宿、仲間と出会えたことで思い入れの深い場所となった。

アントニオは今年の冬に日本に旅行に来る予定だと言う。
私はカナダとポーランドには行きたいと思っていることを話したら
「案内するから、来るときは連絡してくれ」と言ってくれた。

しばらくの間一緒に楽しい時間を過ごした3人との別れはとても寂しかった。
でもこの3人とは、きっとまたどこかで会えるような気がしてならない。

 

**コチクルからカラコルへの移動**
(1)コチクルからバルクイチ
■場所:CBTコチクル近くのバスターミナルから
■手段:シェアタクシー
■料金:200ソム
■所用:1時間

(2)バルクイチからカラコル
■手段:マルシュルートカ
■料金:200ソム
■所用:4時間

 

2017年9月
キルギスのカラコルにて。

女一人旅ブログランキングに参加しています。

下のアイコンを一日1回クリックすると、ランキングが上がるシステム。
(私のテンションも上がります)

↓ワンクリックでよろしければ応援お願いします♪↓

にほんブログ村 旅行ブログ 女一人旅へ
にほんブログ村

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